Smudge Pot Torches

Lizards, shamans and a little black dress in Costa Rica

SAN JOSE, COSTA RICA—This place is supposed to be about rustic eco-lodges. A world of virgin rainforests and black sand beaches, where the trunks of massive mahogany trees are tossed up like toothpicks by the raging surf. It’s about three-toed sloths, giant prehistoric lizards that walk on water and cobalt blue butterflies with six-inch wingspans.

This untamed land of misty cloud forests and violently erupting volcanoes keeps luring me back with my binoculars, bug repellant and hiking boots. But never, before now, have I packed a cocktail dress.

A decade ago, my daughter, Sarah and I spent two nights in an ecolodge called Tabacon, where boiling volcanic springs merge with icy mountain streams to create a steamy natural phenomenon of waterfalls, mineral-rich thermal pools and lagoons that many consider to have magical healing powers. We feasted on tico (native Costa Rican) fare, especially Gallo Pinto (beans and rice).

After a day of rainforest hiking, we watched the red lava flow from our balcony.

Adjectives to describe our adventures might include “sweaty,” “exhilarating” and “educational.” But certainly not “luxurious.” Now, the newly rejuvenated lodge has a fancy new name — Tabacon Grand Spa and Thermal Resort — and those who pass judgment on spas are gushing that it’s among the most sensuous eco spas in the world.

So here I am for another look — this time around with my sweetheart and my little black dress.

Nothing about our suite, with its hand-carved native wood furnishings, artful tiles, designer bath amenities and high-tech entertainment system, resembles an ecolodge I remember. A sumptuous marble Jacuzzi bath is open to the rainforest with its vaulted, skylighted ceiling. A wall of glass faces the volcano.

We can sign up for a night excursion to view the lava flows or a zipline canopy tour through the treetops. We could go whitewater rafting, horseback riding to La Fortuna Waterfall; go volcano trekking. And there’s the spa, a series of exotic open-air bungalows deep in the lush vegetation among the orchid-drenched lagoons, featuring exotic treatments such as warm chocolate wraps and volcanic mud masks. We might try the signature Temazcal Ritual, a traditional Mayan and Native American journey of detoxifying and purification ceremony guided by a real shaman.

Right now, we have dinner reservations at Los Tucanes, the resort’s intimate, torch-lit pavilion, open on three sides to the volcano. While the attire varies from Abercrombie and Fitch jungle-chic to dinner-for-two elegance, one thing is consistent: all the couples appear to be on their honeymoons. He’s looking sexy in white linen shirt and the aforementioned Abercrombie khakis. The fragrant white ginger along the path is a magazine-perfect backdrop for my little black dress.

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